Medieval Osuna

Osuna (approximately 18.000 habitants) is a beautiful town in the Province of Seville and it has rich medieval history. The entire town has been declard as the Site of Historical and Artistsic Interest by the UNESCO. But as typical for a Spanish town, it has lots of restaurants and bars and of course, the bullfighting arena.

The major constructions in town started in 16th century when Pedro Téllez-Girón became the first Duke of Osuna. The family of Téllez-Girón constructed many churches and started the beautification of the town. At the end of the 18th century the Duke and Duchess of Osuna were very prominent in Spanish society. For instance, they were the first sponsors of Goya who painted them. These paintings are situation now in most important Spanis art museum Prado in Madrid.

And guess what – there are almost no tourists in this beautiful whitewashed town! I remember our first visit to the town in July 2017. It was extremely hot and we dropped to the small bar on the outskirsts of town. This was something very Spanish. Men were watching broadcast of bullfighting happening in Pamplona. It was very fierce fight and Rafael Rubio Lujan „Rafaelillo“ got slightly injured.

In other words, I would call the town genuine essence of Andalucia. There are lots of bars and restaurants one can visit. By the way, in spite of all this history, Osuna has new and modern hospital which has been said to be the best in the area.

What to do

1. Visit churches.
Osuna has numerous churches and monasteries. I have counted at least 17 of them but probably there are some more. It is great to visit Osuna during the Holy Week (La Semana Santa). It starts on Palm Sunday and all streets will be occupied by religious processions. The statues of numerous Saints and customs of participans offer most memorable experience.
2. Visit the hillside area of the main church.
The terrain is ascending towards North and the most interesting and beautiful is the hillside area of the main church (Colegiata) and historical main building of Osuna university.
Both are very special buildings. Napoleon occupying forces plundered the main church during the Peninsula War but it has been largely restored.
3. See the historical building of Osuna university.
The former main building of Osuna university is probably the most emblematic buildings of the city. It is rectangular building, organized around a square of the courtyard and it has four towerd at the corners, toped by spiers covered with glazed ceramics. (And the there is still university in Osuna and it is still using the historical main building.)
4. Visit the bullfighting arena of Osuna.
Obviously it is not used for the fight anymore but it is opened for tourists. This has been used as filming location as one of the filming location for 5th season of the famous „Game of Thrones“.
Here you can watch on the dragon scene, being legendary already However, please take into consideration that there are no pyramides in Osuna, they have been added by digital manipulation.
5. Other filming locations of „Game of Thrones“.
If you have arrived to Osuna, you can understand easily why this place was chosen to contribute the movie making. It looks so untouched medieval place. You can find more information about the filming locations here.
6. Visit the street (calle) San Pedro.
The UNESCO has declared that Calle San Pedro is the second most beautiful street in Europe (I don’t know how do they measured it and which streets competed, but it is very special street indeed). You can judge it yourself with a help of following video clip.
7. Main square (Plaza Major).
Naturally you can see most of restaurants here. But take into consieration they are closed at noon, during siesta (since 13:30-14:00). They will reopen gradually in between 19:00-20:00. Do not be angry. This is the Spanish lifestyle and you should relax and adapt.
8. Neighbouring Andalucia.
Due to its location on the half way from Málaga to Sevilla (it has distance of only 87 kilometres to Sevilla) it is good base to make trips to both cities and their surroundings. And there’s some more possibilities for joyride. It takes only 74 kilometres to reach Ronda, 91 kilometres to Cordoba and 165 kilometres to Granada. You can see it is pretty much central to all interesting places you have heard of.

Useful tips & links

  • The best way to fly to area is via Málaga airport as it has lots of connections. However, there is also an airport in Sevilla also.
  • Next, you can rent the car or take the train to Osuna. Both infrastructures are just perfect. There is most excellent highway connecting Málaga and Osuna, most of it has top speed as 120 kilometres per hour (however, take into consideration traffic cameras which areas of occurence are actually marked by signes beforehand). The distance from airport is 131 kilometres and it will take about 1,5 hours if you do not speed (what is easy to happen as highways are really good). From airport, take AP-46 to Sevilla. A-45 might be a bit faster but there you have to pay highway toll.
  • The train is actually very good alternative unless you are coming by night flight. There is train connection in between Málaga airport and main railway station called Maria Zambrano. The travel is just some stops and it will take around ten minutes.
  • From the main railway station you can find at least six trains towards Sevilla which will stop in Osuna. They will cover the distance in about 1 hour and 45 minutes. You can check for more information the homepage of Spanish railway company Renfe.  You can buy your tickets online. Trains are really great but take into consideration the don’t yet have internet onboard and you have to rely on your own devices.
  • Our villa Casa de los Caballos stays about ten kilometres from the centre of Osuna, in Las Viñas. The car may come and pick you on demand for ten euros.